Mexico Wrap-Up

As of last Thursday night, I’ve officially settled into my new spot in Bogotá. Before the switch, though, I had to make sure I explored all of Mexico City’s previously untouched essentials.

Independence Day passed more calmly than I expected. I went with some friends to the parade downtown – a super impressive show of absolutely all that is Mexico, including cactus leaves, raspadas, and other foods, at least ten types of dance, flags, toys, historical figures, Aztec symbols, Spanish colonialists, and on and on. Lunch along the parade route was an appropriately patriotic chile en nogada.

From the parade, we moved on to a party, a very family-oriented “Noche Mexicana” where we ate the traditional independence meal of pozole and watched the president give the “grito” (“shout” or “yell”) on TV: standing on the balcony of the Palacio Nacional the man rings a bell (same site where independence was originally declared, in the same manner) and yells several “Vivas” something like this… President Calderon: Viva la Republica!, Crowd: VIVA!, Pres: VIVA MEXICO!, Crowd: VIVA! Meanwhile the family gathered around the TV at this party was making fun of the first lady’s clothes. Apparently both she and Calderon are widely disliked. After the grito we blew horns and shot off fireworks, and the TV showed a really fantastic light show and fireworks display happening downtown, which several of my friends criticized for the fact that it cost so many millions of dollars. But it did look cool.

That September 15th was only day one of the race to see it all. Like I mentioned, I made an early dent in sightseeing, with the pyramids and Bellas Artes, etc. Since then, I’ve hit tons more:

Museo Nacional de Antrolopología – extensive display of artifacts from all of Mexico’s indigenous cultures. Most important part of course is the Mexica (Aztec) room.

Condesa/Zona Rosa – neighborhood inspired by French culture. Popular for yuppie bohemian types, so naturally I enjoyed it. Went here for hookah and hummus, and OMG I forgot how much I love hummus.

Templo Mayor (Main Temple) – ruins, supposed site of the Aztec’s founding of the capital, right in the middle of the city even today. Hard to imagine what it would have really looked like, but so cool to see, especially knowing that excavation of the site only began about 40 years ago. Before that, no one knew it was hidden under the modern city.

Xochimilco – weird area in the south of the city where you can rent trajineros (large, long, colorful boats) to take you for a ride down some old canals. A really popular place to drink during the day and/or have a family outing. Each trajinero is named after a girl – there were no ANDREA ones though, but we made the boatman change the sign just for me. There are also mariachi boats that you can pay to ride along side your own and play for you. Funny little place, all in all.

Palacio Nacional – finally went inside, to see several more Diego Rivera murals, some government chambers, and a special bicentennial exhibition. Worth it.

Castillo de Chapultepec/Museo Nacional de Historia – site of a battle during the war with the U.S. in the 1800s and the famous story of the Niños Heroes, also used to be a living space for dictator Porfirio Diaz. Best part – tons of Siqueiros murals (I like him better than Rivera). From the patios you also get a fabulous view of the city, and I went on a photo rampage. This, I think, was my favorite attraction within Mexico City. Plus, you have to walk through a bit of the Parque de Chapultepec to get to it – a pretty little bonus.

Besides cramming in a billion tourist attractions, I spent my last week in Mexico with friends, revisiting Coyoacán several times (favorite bar, still: La Bipo), getting my last dose of mariachi music, and still trying and failing to like mezcal. I never expected to be so happy in Mexico, or so sad to leave.

What I found there, above all, were the most genuinely open and generous people I’ve ever encountered. I really was told that their casa was my casa, wherever I went, by perfect strangers. And they meant it. It did take awhile for me to adjust to their pace of life; mainly, nothing happening on time, ever. At first, I couldn’t stand it, but I grew to appreciate the subconscious Mexican belief that, as Lonely Planet puts it, “few things are worth rushing for.” Meanwhile I got to know a totally distinct culture, one that people are really, really proud of, and I also had the privilege of seeing how they see their country’s challenges – they’re very aware, and very openly critical.

Most importantly, as someone from the U.S., knowing how we view Mexico, my eyes were totally opened to the way they look at us, and at our countries’ relationship. The news coverage I saw – of immigration, narco-trafficking, the war in Iraq, etc – was clearly different from what we see in the States. And I can’t even begin to count how many times I was asked for my opinion on Arizona’s immigration law. The answer was always, I hate it, it’s racist, etc, but I was surprised to get a variety of responses back from my Mexican friends. On immigration in general, I heard everything from “They [the Americans] treat us like animals” and Angela’s story of a cousin who got his finger cut off by migration authorities, to “Well, I understand… For example, if Mexico had as many Chinese people as there are Mexicans in the U.S., I would be upset too.” No matter what, though, it was a central conversation topic, one that I hope keeps its momentum in the U.S. as well.

Anyway, my conclusion is that it would do us all good if more people got a taste of Mexico, a real one. Not just a few news clippings and a viewing of Y tu mamá también. Not even twelve college credit hours. You have to live things to really understand them. Six weeks ago, I would have said Mexico wasn’t really my style. Now with just a few days away, I find myself terribly craving the place, pondering when I can go back.